Palau part 1 – Saturday 10th – Monday 12th October 2026

After arriving on Saturday afternoon, and settling into our accommodation, yesterday was our chance to get out and explore more of the main island of Babeldaob. We had the hire car ready, a full day ahead of us and, most importantly, a plan for lunch!

Palau is made up of more than 300 islands, although only a relatively small number are inhabited. The main population centre is Koror, where we are staying, but the largest island is Babeldaob. It’s connected to Koror by the impressive Koror–Babeldaob Bridge (Japanese Friendship Bridge), making it easy to head north and explore.

Palau is a tiny country in the western Pacific, with a small population of around 18,000 people. It became an independent country in 1994, having previously been administered by the United States after the Second World War. The US still has an important relationship with Palau today, including responsibility for aspects of its defence under an agreement between the two countries.

A road trip around the island

We spent a few hours driving around Babeldaob, taking in the scenery and getting a better feel for the island beyond Koror. There’s plenty of green countryside, small settlements and coastline, and it’s a lovely way to see a different side of Palau.

One thing we are discovering is that having a hire car is useful, and even though we have done it lots before, driving on the right-hand side of the road takes a little concentration when you’re used to Australian roads. Every now and then, you have to give yourself (or each other) a little reminder about which side of the road you should actually be on!

To make it even more interesting, it started to rain quite heavily on the drive, which is not unusual in tropical places such as this. Unfortunately, at the moment it was at its heaviest, we were on a back road which was only dirt (and mud!). The main roads here are excellent, but the dirt roads are narrow and bumpy and Dave did a great job keeping the momentum up and getting us through. There was no internet at that point, so I was a little concerned we were up for a long walk!

Lunch at the northern tip

After stopping at a dilapidated Japanese lighthouse (built in 1936 – pics above) we made it to the northernmost tip of the island and stopped at Jive Cafe for lunch. We shared a burger and chips ($13 US) — hardly an exotic island feast, but the service was excellent, (they even put on two plates) the view over the water charming and the burger rated by Dave as 6/10. Coleslaw rather than salad was his issue!

It’s always interesting seeing what food is available in different parts of the Pacific. Palau relies heavily on imported food, with supplies coming from places including the United States, Japan, Taiwan and other regional trading partners. Local fishing and agriculture contribute to the food supply, but much of what ends up on supermarket shelves has travelled a considerable distance to get there. We shared a burger with the plan to share some ice-cream for dessert, but as the café owner said ‘No ice-cream sorry, we are waiting for the ship to arrive’.

Food travelling many kilometres to get here makes us appreciate the local food discoveries even more, although I do worry a lot about their food security. I’ll also be keeping an eye out for more traditional Palauan dishes as we go.

Dinner with a lift — both ways!

We’ve also been making the most of Palau’s restaurants, and one of the handy things we’ve discovered is that some restaurants offer pickup and drop-off as part of the dining experience.

On Saturday night, we headed to Elilai for dinner. Last night, we went to Sakura, enjoying another evening out without having to worry about navigating unfamiliar roads after dark.

For dinner at Elilai, Dave had grilled local fish and I started with Tom Ka Goong, which was a lovely spicy coconut-based soup with prawns and mushrooms, followed by risotto made with chunks of local lobster. I’m a bit fussy about risottos, but this was a pretty good version, the big chunks of shellfish making it extra delicious.

Sakura was also a great meal. It’s Japanese and is currently housed in a large floating restaurant on the water’s edge on the island of Malakal, which is connected to the island we are staying on by a small bridge. I enjoyed a set menu which included appetisers, miso soup, Chawunmushi (steamed eggs – my favourite), a tempura assortment including some super tasty local king prawns plus a plate of sushi – some grilled (aburi) some fresh. Desert was a matcha creme caramel – delicious! Dave again had grilled fish with vegetables and a bowl of fries (of course) and finished with waffles with chocolate sauce and ice-cream. Nicole, our server was actually Philippino, and she was fantastic: attentive, interesting and informative. Tipping is not really done here – but she was thrilled that we left a great review and mentioned her on Tripadvisor 😊

The pickup and drop-off service that a few restaurants and businesses offer here is a great idea, particularly when you’re still getting used to driving on the opposite side of the road. Although we have a hire car, there’s something rather appealing about leaving it parked at the resort and letting someone else do the driving for a change!

Last night’s driver, Thomas, was particularly entertaining. He was very chatty and, on the way back, gave us a bit of an impromptu tour, pointing things out and sharing information about the area.

He was so helpful that he also offered his services for anything else we might need during our stay. Very entrepreneurial, Thomas! I suspect we may have found ourselves a local tour guide before we’ve even finished the week. 😉

A little more to discover

One of the things that makes Palau special is its combination of natural beauty and history. Beyond the roads and villages, there are the famous Rock Islands, extraordinary marine life, World War II relics and some spectacular diving and snorkelling.

Palau is particularly well known for its marine environment and its commitment to protecting the ocean. The surrounding waters are home to coral reefs, tropical fish, turtles and plenty of other marine life. It’s a big reason why divers travel from around the world to visit.

One of the interesting things about arriving in Palau is the Palau Pledge. All visitors are asked to sign a pledge in their passport on arrival, promising to act in an environmentally responsible way and protect the country’s natural and cultural heritage. The pledge, which is stamped into your passport (in both our cases upside down!), asks visitors to tread lightly, act kindly and explore mindfully, with the needs of Palau’s children and future generations in mind. It’s a wonderful initiative that puts sustainability front and centre from the moment you arrive. Rather than simply telling tourists to look after the environment, Palau asks you to make a personal promise to do so. It’s a reminder that this beautiful little country, with its pristine waters, coral reefs and incredible marine life, is something we all have a responsibility to protect, although signing something in your own passport does feel a little strange!

There’s also plenty of history here, from the period of Japanese administration before and during World War II to the American involvement that followed. We’re hoping to explore more of that side of Palau during our stay, with a WWII Military History Boat Tour to Peleliu booked for tomorrow.

Today we’re swapping the steering wheel for a massage table. We’ve booked massages, and once again pickup is included.

We may have hired a car, but we’re quickly learning that sometimes it’s easier to let someone else navigate the roads — particularly when your instincts keep telling you to drive on the left!

We’ve still got plenty to see and do, so this is just the beginning of our Palau adventures. More to come later in the week, including more exploring, food discoveries and hopefully a few stories worth sharing.

For now, we’re off to relax. Someone has to do it!

Until next time,

Sara xx